Pyramid Lake is a great alkaline desert sea sitting in the high country north of Reno, and it is the only place on earth you can catch the giant Lahontan cutthroat — a fish that grows to sizes the rest of the trout world stopped believing in long ago. There is nothing else like it. Anglers stand on stepladders out in the shallows, casting into the wind off a beach with no shade and no soft edges, waiting for a fish that might run into double figures and occasionally well beyond. It is a winter fishery, cold and stark and strangely addictive. You can fish all day and touch nothing, and then a cutthroat the size of your leg eats the fly and reminds you why people drive across two states to stand on a ladder in the desert in January.
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